Stainless Steel Cleaning Methods

To achieve maximum protection for your stainless steel, we recommend using Pro-Railing Clean & Protect products directly after installation, and then use the cleaning methods below where applicable. 

Degreasing 

Dirt left on the surface after the fabrication process can have a serious effect on the corrosion resistance of stainless steel. Not only will it prevent the steel from oxidising, but it can also contain corrosive particles, which will start rusting at a later date. 

Pickling

Pickling requires the use of strong chemicals (hydrofluoric acid and nitric acid) to dissolve the surface of the steel. This process completely removes any surface contaminants and will help to restore the chromium level to the weld affected areas. 

The heat from the welding process drives chromium away from the weld area. The area adjacent to the weld is often low in chromium and high in iron. These areas are always the most susceptible to corrosion once the component is in use. 

Iron dissolves more readily than chromium; therefore, the pickling process leaves the surface chromium-rich and in a condition where it can form a dense oxide layer.

Passivation

Stainless steel will passivate in the open atmosphere – assuming that it is spotlessly clean to begin with and so is the air it is sat in. It is a slow process and, depending on the grade of stainless, can take between 24-48 hours to occur.

The chromium-oxide layer that protects stainless steel from corrosion is relatively fragile. It can be broken or damaged during fabrication, if scratched and/or contamination is allowed to settle on the surface. 

The most effective way to force it b 

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Whatever the finish on your products to get the best life expectancy from them, we recommend that you should check them over every few months and give them an occasional wash. We have touch-up paints and aerosols for any scratches or wear and tear damage that may occur.

N.B. We do not recommend using bleach for cleaning as this can be harmful and can cause discoloration.

Cleaning Powder Coated Products:

Wash well at annual intervals, with soap if necessary, and wax the clean, dry surface with a thin layer as you would a car. When the wax is dry polish off with a soft cloth to restore the appearance. This is even more important in coastal region and the frequency should be increased up to four times a year as required.

• It’s best to start by wiping the surface gently with a wet sponge to remove any loose dirt and debris. You can also use a soft brush for this purpose. A wire brush would be too harsh since it would also remove the finish. You should try to remove most of the surface dirt and dust if you can.
• Next remove salt and any other deposits from the surface of the fence and gate with a soft brush and a mild household detergent.
• Choose a detergent that is free from both solvents and petroleum-based chemicals when cleaning your powder-coated fence. The product you use should be safe for your skin. If you need to protect your skin by wearing gloves when using the product, it’s probably to harsh for the gate, fence or railings.
• Thoroughly rinse the fence or gate using lukewarm water. Next, allow it to either dry naturally or use a clean, dry cloth to dry it off if you would like to get a cleaner look.

• Ensure it is thoroughly dry before touching-up any scratches or blemishes if necessary.

Cleaning Painted Products:

• Wash well at least once a year depending on your location. You can use a mild soap in warm water. Remove any dust, dirt, or green algae (which can sometimes be found in shady areas or under trees). In severe cases there are products which will remove moss and algae.

• Thoroughly rinse the fence or gate using lukewarm water. Next, allow it to either dry naturally or use a clean, dry cloth to dry it off if you would like to get a cleaner look.

• Ensure it is thoroughly dry before touching-up any scratches or blemishes if necessary.

Overcoating Powder or Paint

Although powder coating will last for many years eventually it might require refreshing, and painting can help seal any scratches or chips, refresh the appearance, and help to extend the life of the product. Powder coating has a smooth finish, so you should always increase the adhesion capabilities by sanding and applying an appropriate primer. Success will lie in the preparation. Painting over powder coating requires a little more preparation, but it is possible to achieve a long-lasting, beautiful finish.

N.B.  Because paints can vary, we would always suggest testing a small area first.

• Always ensure that any loose material, dirt or grease is removed as this will allow better adhesion.
• Next use a cleaner or degreaser with a power washer or with a soft brush.
• Rinse well and allow to dry thoroughly before sanding the surface with a fine grit sandpaper (around180-220 grit) to aid adhesion. The aim is not to remove the powder coat but to roughen the surface.
• Make sure any dust is removed.
• The next step then depends on the top coat you will be using, and whether is it a vinyl such as FH Brundle’s Vinylast™ which might go straight on or whether it is a water based or white spirit based which may require a specialist primer. There are a number of specialist primers which are available on the internet, such as Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer, but they are not recommended for applying beneath Vinylast™.
• If you are using primer, follow instructions, and wait to dry before applying paint. This will create a bond for your top coat.
• Apply the top coat, which may need several coats, allowing to dry between each coat.

• If you chose Vinylast™ as the top coat simply apply to a dry film thickness of 80 microns. A range of colours is available from stock or any RAL or BS colour can be made to order.

Over-painting Liquid Paint:

Different types of paint may require different repainting techniques. For example, our Vinylast™ products simply require the work to be clean and dry and then you can simply add another coat to refresh the appearance and protect your fence, gates or balustrades for many more years. However, enamels and glossy finishes may require sanding, an undercoat or primer, and a topcoat, as painting on gloss may reduce adhesion.

• Always ensure that any dirt or grease is removed and make sure your work is dry before starting as this will allow better adhesion. There are products which can do this, but you could also try the eco-friendly method of using a mixture of white vinegar and water.
• If your fence or gates have signs of green algae or moss, this must be removed before painting.
• Because different paints can vary, we would always suggest testing a small area first, especially if the existing paint is unknown.

Head over to Paint Corner where offer a premium selection of paints specially formulated for metalwork, backed by our comprehensive Paints and Coatings Guide.